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amalfi coast positano

My Trip to Positano on the Amalfi Coast

By Rachel Kay

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Italy is one of the most awesome places to visit. I recently had the opportunity to travel to Italy and visit the Amalfi coast. It was such an amazing experience. The scenery is unreal. The mountains slope straight into the see, with rocky cliffs meeting the crashing waves. Every so often, there is a tiny beach and that’s where the little towns are clustered. The towns themselves are a wonder. The houses are built on the cliffs, and there are multiple levels down, from the road. The houses are so quaint and colorful which adds to the romantic look of the region.

positano Italy

Wandering through the winding narrow cobblestone allies, where little shops and restaurants are  bordering, is an experience on its own. Every time a vehicle needs to pass, you literally need to jump in to one of the arched doorways of the shops to avoid being hit!

There are staircases between the houses and streets, and you need to climb them to reach some homes. It feels like a trip back in time. The little villages clustered among the sharp winding roads, spring up literally inches away from the side of the road.

positano Italy
positano Italy

We rented a villa in Praiano on the Amalfi coast, close to Positano, on a cliff overlooking the sea. The décor was really quaint, full of artful mosaics and natural rock walls carved out of the mountain. We had a full kitchen where we were able to cook our meals.

positano Italy
positano Italy
positano Italy

Our hosts had their own chickens and grew some fruits and vegetables in their own garden. They brought us fresh eggs every day, which the chicken had laid. We used about 4 eggs every day, so one day, I asked her to bring me more eggs, she said, “ I can only bring you 2 eggs, my chicken only laid 2 eggs today!!” that was really funny. She also brought me lemons and oranges that grew in their garden. The lemons were so big, I’ve never seen such big ones in New York.

When I was browsing for villas on the Amalfi coast, in the Positano area, online, and reading the reviews, I saw some people were writing about taking a cooking class with a professional chef from the region. I thought that was a great idea. I asked my host to find out if she can get me a chef for my stay there. I was in luck! She found the nicest chef, his name is Baldaserra. Since I only eat kosher food, I had some special requirements. I contacted the chef and explained that I can’t use all kinds of ingredients, so we would be limited somewhat. But he accepted the challenge, and told me not to worry, we will figure it out. We planned on buying fresh fish, produce and some basic ingredients like olive oil, salt, and sugar. He told us that they cook with very simple ingredients, no processed or manufactured products, so that would be ideal for us.

The evening we arrived to Praiano, on the Amalfi coast, was a rainy and foggy day, and the winds, caused the waves to be quite choppy. We had to drive through the foggy mountain roads, to get to our villa. It was terrifying at times, driving through dense fog, barely able to see anything.

positano Italy

When we finally arrived to our villa early evening, we just went straight to sleep. The next morning we contacted Baldaserra and we made up to meet in the center of town, which was just a few minutes’ drive up the main road. The road goes straight through the village, and the stores are right on the side. We just parked our car on the side of the road, and hopped out to meet him. He spotted me right away and came over to greet us. He explained to us, that all the fish in the local store, is usually locally caught fish, and since the waves were choppy last night, the boats did not go out to catch any fish, so there are basically no fish in the fish store! Talk about being primitive!


So we decided to cook a vegetarian meal. We walked over to the little grocery and selected some produce from the crates outside. Chef pulled out some green leaves, that looked similar to spinach or kale, and he told us that it’s called broccoli, after inspecting it closely, I did see some tiny little broccoli like buds on the stems. I had no idea what it tasted like but I decided to try it. We bought some locally grown cherry tomatoes which were in season, some artichokes, which are very popular there, onions, and 2 kinds of pasta. He produces his own olive oil, so he brought that along. We had brought our own kosher wine, and cheese from London, where we had stopped over before we came to Italy.

shopping in Positano italy
shopping in Positano italy

We bid ciao, and we parted ways, to enjoy the rest of the day, agreeing on a time to meet at our villa to cook our dinner.

We enjoyed wandering through the town of positano, and perusing the few shops which were open this season, since it was February which is the low season, and there are hardly any tourists, which was great for us. The downside was, that some days were rainy and quite cool, and the water is cold, so there’s no swimming in the ocean.

After an enjoyable day, we went back to our villa and the chef came over to start cooking our meal.

positano Italy
italian chef cooking class
italian chef cooking class

Baldaserra was so friendly and easygoing and explained everything to us as we prepared our meal together. It was really nice to get to know a local guy and hear what life is like in this region on the Amalfi coast.

In no time at all he whipped up a few dishes and we dug in hungrily thoroughly enjoying our authentic Italian food.

He cooked for us 3 nights, and we tried many different dishes. I wrote a few blogs each covering another recipe, since it’s too much to cover in one post.

Click through the links to see the delicious recipes we tried!

24 Thoughts to My Trip to Positano on the Amalfi Coast

  1. Yacon Root Reply September 4, 2017 at 6:39 am

    Great Blog. Really enjoyed reading.

  2. Omid Rahmani Reply January 21, 2019 at 11:02 pm

    We are traveling there in July and we keep kosher
    Can you provide us the chef’ contact
    Sounds amazing

    • Rachel Kay Reply January 22, 2019 at 1:12 am

      Hi, I’m so happy for you that you are going to that area..it is truly spectacular.
      The chefs name is Baldaserra. I will send you his phone number.
      Also, I want to let you know, that in the island of Capri, there is a kosher hotel and restaurant. Its called Tiberio. This past July we were there for several meals and we ate the Shabbat.
      It was an amazing experience. You should check it out.
      I hope you make the most of your trip!

      • HELEN davis Reply May 1, 2019 at 2:38 pm

        Hi RACHEL.
        Loved your post!
        IyH, we would love to visit the Amalfi Coast this summer.
        Can you share the contact information for the villa you rented
        And the private chef.
        The kosher hotel in Capri looks interesting !!

        • Rachel Kay Reply May 2, 2019 at 2:15 pm

          Hi Helen, I’m glad you enjoyed my post! Yes it was amazing, I would love to go back there again. The villa I rented was on flipkey, if you want I can try to find the link of the exact place I stayed in. The chef was wonderful, here is his contact info. You can contact him through whats app, or phone.
          His name is Baldaserra his number is +393355224639
          Good luck!

      • Dvora Reply July 25, 2019 at 12:53 pm

        Thanks for this comment! I was trying to find kosher food in the Amalfi area and will god willing eat at Tiberio in Capri!

    • Rachel Kay Reply May 2, 2019 at 2:17 pm

      I posted the contact number, check it out!

  3. Eva Muller Reply April 3, 2019 at 5:33 pm

    Can you please send me Baldassera contact info as well?
    And was your pasta bought in amalfi?
    Going in the summer and your arrangement sounds amazing

    • Rachel Kay Reply May 2, 2019 at 2:18 pm

      check the contact info in my other responses. Yes, I bought the pasta in Amalfi, they had the brands I recognized from the local supermarkets. You can purchase new pots over there locally.

  4. Sam Reply April 24, 2019 at 7:54 pm

    Hi – thanks for your blog post. We’re traveling here in September and also keep Kosher. Can you please share Baldaserra’s contact information?

    • Rachel Kay Reply May 2, 2019 at 2:19 pm

      His name is Baldaserra his number is +393355224639. Let me know, how it was.

      • Rachel Reply May 8, 2019 at 12:22 pm

        Love your blog
        What do u suggest for first time Capri or Amalfi?

        • Rachel Kay Reply May 8, 2019 at 7:30 pm

          You can do both! They are just a short boat ride away. So wherever you decide to stay, you can just go visit the other one. In Capri, there is a kosher hotel, so you don’t have to worry about food, although it is quite expensive. Amalfi, is easier to drive around to other towns, like Positano and Ravello. If you stay in Capri, you will need to take a boat to Amalfi or Positano, and then you can take another ferry to the next town. In the summer they are all connected with boats. Capri, is a bit quieter and laid back than Amalfi.

  5. Rachel Reply May 7, 2019 at 2:02 pm

    Hi. Beautiful post
    Did u stay over shabbat?

    • Rachel Kay Reply May 8, 2019 at 7:31 pm

      No, but I went last June again, and I stayed in Capri for Shabbat.

  6. Rachel Reply May 8, 2019 at 11:15 am

    Love your post.
    Can u ask u for a first time in the south of Italy should I go to Capri or Amalfi?

    • Rachel Kay Reply July 22, 2019 at 12:50 pm

      Hi, sorry that it took a while to respond. I would say it doesn’t matter that much, because wherever you will stay, you can see the other one too, because they are a short boat ride away. In Capri there is a kosher restaurant and hotel, they are extremely expensive, so it depends on your budget. If your budget allows then stay there because you will have kosher food, and in Amalfi there is no kosher food. But if you want to bring food with you, you can stay in Amalfi. If you stay in Amalfi, you can get around to the nearby towns easier, because it is on the main land. You can also hop over on a day trip to Capri, it is definitely a must do. So I guess look for your best option in lodging, food, and budget and decide accordingly. You will see both regardless.

  7. Eli Reply July 17, 2019 at 10:58 pm

    hey, anyone know if there , is there any kosher restaurant in positano / amalfi area ?

    • Rachel Kay Reply July 22, 2019 at 12:46 pm

      There is one restaurant on the island of Capri, that is kosher. The name is Tiberio. You can google it. You need to take a ferry though from Amalfi, or you can stay on the island of Capri.

  8. Miriam Dolnikov Reply July 24, 2019 at 2:46 am

    hi Rachel
    All your info is so helpful! we are traveling there in August IYH and I’m looking into Capri and Amalfi coast. Yes, Tiberio palace looks amazing but so expensive! Did you stay there over shabbos? you wrote above that you spent shabbos on Capri – where did you stay?
    Many thanks for all this info and for your blog!

  9. Rachel Kay Reply July 25, 2019 at 10:45 am

    I did stay in Capri. I rented a house on airbnb.com . Then I ate one meal in the restaurant and one meal we just ate in our apartment. Make sure to look up the address of the hotel and make sure your apartment is not too far from there so you can walk there on shabbos if you want to..

  10. Terri Levy Reply August 19, 2019 at 10:48 pm

    We are 9 people arriving in Naples Fri June 26, 2020.
    We are all shomer Shabbas. Any suggestions for where to stay near Chabadbarcelona in Naples.
    Can we stay in Naples and take day trips by boat to Sorrento, Positano and Capri? Is kosher food available in those places.
    Thanks love your blog!

  11. Terri Levy Reply August 26, 2019 at 7:31 pm

    Our cruise is docking in Naples next June 2020. Where do you suggest we stay for Shabbas. Besides Tiberio in Capri, is there any other source of kosher food on the Amalfi Coast? We can get to Positano, Capri, Sorrento or stay in Naples. Is there a kosher restaurant or store that will send us food for shabbas?
    I saw online that there isChabad in Naples but no mention of hospitality or Shule.
    I’d appreciate any advice.
    Many thanks!

    • Rachel Kay Reply August 27, 2019 at 9:25 am

      Wow..you are really planning in advance! There is no kosher restaurant in the area except for the hotel in Capri.
      There is a Chabad of Naples and they have a shul and also meals.
      There is also a service online that you can order food delivered to you. It’s called kosherwhere.com. But you will need to heat it if you want it to be warm.
      Try googling kosher food delivery in Europe and see what you get.
      There is no kosher grocery in the entire area as far as I know.
      Enjoy your cruise!
      Does your cruise offer kosher food for the journey?


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